Pizza & Pool Hopping in Santa Catalina, Panama

Oct 18

If you’re looking for one of the best pizza places in Panama, you’ll find one in the little sleepy surfer town of Santa Catalina. Pizzeria Jammin’ was originally owned by an Italian woman, Paola Gianelli, and her husband. She knows pizza. You want to know good pizza? Go to Pizzeria Jammin’. It’s conveniently located steps away from the casita where I stayed, Casa Maya - owned by Paola who used to own the pizza place!

Santa Catalina is considered one of the best surfing spots in Panama. While I’m not a surfer, there was plenty for me to see and do for a week. It’s obvious the closures from Covid have taken a toll on the yoga studios and juice bars that once flourished in the small enclave of coffee shops and water tour operators in the small town of Santa Catalina. But there’s a nice laid back vibe reminiscent of Santa Cruz, California. And if this area is like others in Panama, it will spring back to life after the hardships the country has faced due to the pandemic. One of the ways you can help revitalize Panama is by coming to visit!

Santa Catalina is about a two hour drive from Santiago, Panama. But if you’re stuck behind a truck, it might take more time to get there. And the road conditions vary depending upon the time of year and if potholes have been filled or not. Stock up on supplies of cash and groceries in Santiago as there aren’t any proper grocery stores in town. And your last opportunity to buy gas is in Sona, about halfway to Santa Catalina.

Did you ever go pool hopping as a kid? Where I grew up in Stamford, Connecticut, we’d often sneak onto the grounds (okay, trespassing) of a swim club in the dark and humid summer evenings to take a quiet dip in the pool. Keeping quiet was more challenging than climbing the fence. We felt like we were getting away with something; a stolen part of summer, perhaps. Rarely did we ever get caught. And if we did, we were just yelled at from a distance. No security cameras or barbed wire. You don’t have to climb any fences to pool hop in Santa Catalina, but you will need patience and pleasantries.

villa coco

As challenging as getting into a club in NYC, getting a pasa el día (day pass) to use the pool takes some patience and smiles. Even though their sign out front states they offer day passes, it wasn’t until my third attempt that I was finally able to get in and enjoy the club.

And enjoy I did! The pool is sumptuous, perfect temperature of the water at the edge of the jungle and the chill vibe tunes playing from the bar area were the perfect ingredients for a relaxing few hours.

I had lunch at the restaurant, Ai Mamita, an open air venue offering up some truly tasty plates. Consider coming to the restaurant in the early evening if you can’t make use of the pool for the day.

I finished my afternoon lounging with an espresso and postre (dessert) on the lounge chair where I read a few more pages of my book while taking a social media break.

vista coiba villas & restaurant

Conveniently located just steps away from Casa Maya, the hotel, Vista Coiba Villas has a nice small pool that I was allowed to use for free due to the quarantine measures and the kindness of the manager. Typically, if you purchase some beverages and a bite to eat, that will be enough to use the pool for a while. But again, keep in mind that things change frequently in Panama and it’s best to be flexible with your plans.

I loved sitting on a lounge chair perched on the hillside where I enjoyed a consistent ocean breeze and read my book before dozing off. Make sure you position your chair away from the coconut trees! That would be an unpleasant aspect to an otherwise peaceful afternoon.

View from Vista Coiba Villas Grounds, Santa Catalina, Panama

catalina’s hideaway

What a cool spot this was. Located down a long dirt road away from the town of Santa Catalina and within steps from miles of an amazing beach to walk, Catalina’s Hideaway was a great find. To use the pool, they asked that I spend $15 at the restaurant/bar. I happily ordered a plate of tacos and thoroughly enjoyed them.

A few hopeful dogs glanced at me while I ate - but I think they knew deep down, there wasn’t a chance I was sharing any of that meal. The down-tempo chill music at the right volume, was a perfect backdrop to some serious relaxing.

Prior to stepping onto the grounds of Catalina’s Hideaway, I’d taken a long walk on the beach and collected a bunch of shells. I’d worked up an appetite and was anticipating a swim and lounging on one of the thatch-shaded day beds.

The pool temperature was perfectly warmed by the sun and after some water time, I laid down on the day bed, read a bit, snoozed a bit and ordered an espresso to perk me up for the drive back to Casa Maya.

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Coiba snorkeling

The tour operator makes a big difference for your enjoyment to Coiba Island, a national park and protected reef area. Divers and snorkelers endure the often harsh one hour ride to Coiba for the reward of seeing various fish and sea creatures in abundance.

Do not use Coiba Express! The boat wasn’t safe (safety railing broke off in my hand) and the boat operator had no first aid training. This became evident when a young boy bit his tongue on one of the hard slams on the water the boat frequently did due to high speed. The driver didn’t even slow down in order for the kid’s parents to attend to him. And they offered him a cotton ball. By bare hand. Even in non-pandemic times, you don’t offer something your bare hands have touched to go in someone’s bleeding mouth. And certainly not a cotton ball.

The snorkel boat didn’t have a ladder. The absence of a ladder meant I needed to swim twice the length in order to get to the sandy shore where I could climb into the boat. Yes, I’m overweight and don’t have the upper body strength - even on a recent trip to Contadora I needed a little help on a boat with a ladder. I wasn’t going to humiliate myself by trying to haul myself up onto the boat. Full disbelief that a $60 fare didn’t include a bit more thought and planning.

The snorkel guide wrangled us too close together and mostly directed us to keep up with him as he swam. I prefer to hover above the fish and let myself spend some time observing them nibbling at the coral. It felt rushed and micro-managed.

A good piece of advice I got was to see if a dive tour boat would let me go as a snorkeler. Dive boat operators are more professional and safety is their main concern.

Coiba is a day trip for most visitors as there isn’t any accommodation on the island itself. There are a few rustic cabins which you can reserve, but were a bit too much like camping for me to consider.

I didn’t use the pool at the Hotel Santa Catalina, and I’m not even sure if they offer a day pass, but I had lunch at their restaurant, Pescao, and had one of the best meals in recent months. The fish filet was cooked perfectly with a crisp breaded outside and tender moist fish inside. The coconut rice was toothsome and flavorful. And the view, what could be better.

Pescao Restaurant, Santa Catalina, Panama

Best flan - Pescao Restaurant, Santa Catalina, Panama

Pool at Hotel Santa Catalina, Santa Catalina, Panama

Paola Gianelli, Owner - Casa Maya, Santa Catalina, Panama

I loved my stay in the little casita at Casa Maya. It was super clean and very cute. The comfy bed and air conditioning created the perfect environment for a good night’s sleep. The kitchen was surprisingly well-equipped for just about anything you’d want to saute’ or boil.

Best of all was Paola, the owner and host. She made sure the guests had what they needed and even cleaned and refreshed my casita on occasion during my week-long stay.

The gelato place was closed while I was visiting, but if it’s open - you have pizza and gelato just steps from Casa Maya.

If you book a stay there - say hello to Paola from me!